To read “Life as a Payge Turner”: http://www.canada-goose.com/CanadaGoose_Magazine_ISS_6.pdf

Rumor on the trail that the Lukla airport had shut down started a week ago. We were still making our push to Everest Base Camp (17,701 feet) and Kala Patthar (18,315 feet). The weather was starting to change, and afternoons brought a thick fog and limited visibility. Temperatures plummeted to minus 5-degrees F at night. Our guide didn’t seem concerned; five days later, it was a different story.

Snuggled into the Himalaya at 9,000 feet in elevation, Lukla is the “major” portal in and out of the Everest region. Its tiny airport is ranked as one of the most dangerous in the world.

If the weather didn’t lift, we would not be able to hike into Lukla as planned. Two thousand trekkers were already stranded there. All the hotel rooms were booked. People were sleeping where they could—on dining room floors, in hallways, and inside their tents. Food was being rationed as supply planes were grounded in Kathmandu. The few airlines and helicopter service that service Lukla, were helpless.

To read the rest of the article: http://ngadventure.typepad.com/blog/2011/11/everest-news-escape-from-lukla-thousands-of-trekkers-evacuated-.html

 Annapurna Circuit & Gettin’ High! 

Yaks make me sneeze, goats eat marijuana and the Yeti I saw at High Camp turned out to be a bearded, 6’8” Canadian.

Even with the crowds, yaks, and tall, hairy Canadians you will enjoy this snow-capped mountain, teahouse trek high in the sky!

Teahouses

What this trail lacked in remote wilderness, made up for in rustic lodging. This was my first teahouse trek and I actually enjoyed NOT having to deal with a tent. The simple teahouses provided a hiker with a room, a bed with a mattress and a blanket. You shared a bathroom with a squat toilet and often a separate shower. There was no heat and often no electricity, but if you packed right, you managed to keep warm.

Typically a teahouse costs around 100-200 Rupees a night. This is about $2. They make their money from the food you eat and not on the rooms. If you eat enough, many times they won’t charge for the room. (Payge’s video tour of a traditional teahouse: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xshbb97xtQ)

Food & Drink

Expect to pay between 300-500 Rupees (about $4-$7) a meal and the higher up the mountain, the more expensive the food. Meat like chicken and yak are available on occasion, but more likely the only kind of meat available will be canned tuna. Also, since most items are made from scratch, order at LEAST an hour earlier than you want it and breakfast the night before.

Dal Baht (lentil soup served with rice, potatoes and usually cabbage) is the way to go with free 2nd helpings. Everything else, including pizza, spring rolls (think calzones without tomato sauce) curry and fried noodles were served in generous portions. Hot oat porridge with apples for breakfast was always a good choice.

If you like coffee, tea or hot chocolate and want to save a little money, bring it and they will only charge for the hot water (yes, they charge for hot water!)

Don’t buy bottled water. There are plenty of places to collect water from including rushing streams and faucets. Purify. I used a SteriPEN to ‘ultraviolent ray’ out any bad stuff.

Electrolytes are hard to find once in Nepal but Tang is the next best thing. I recommend you buy Tang and some snacks for extra energy boosts throughout the day. My favorites were granola and Snickers bars.

The French are coming! The Spanish are coming!

At times it became like a laughable ‘war strategy’ on the trail. There were a bunch of big adventure travel groups (French, Spanish and Israeli) with 15-20 people in each. If you were a faster trekker, you didn’t want to get behind them and you also wanted to beat them to the small villages to make sure you could get a room for the night.

A small traveling community of new friends develops between trekkers on the trail. I met so many people from all over the world. There were a lot of Israeli’s on the trail as many vacation in the month of October for their New Year’s holiday. I hiked at various times with Canadians, Scottish, British, Irish and French. It is fun meeting new people and hearing their stories.

It took until day 5 to meet another American. After that I met a bunch every day. I especially liked these 4 American women traveling with a couple porters and guide. Their ages ranged from 53 – 66. The 66 year old was their fastest hiker! The oldest person I met on the trail was this American gentleman from Santa Fe. He is 77! He was hiking with 2 other friends with porter/guide support. The youngest, a 16 year old Israeli girl was with her parents. How cool is that?!

It was more common to see a male solo (no porter/guide) hiker versus a female like me. It was never a problem being a solo female on the trail. Everyone was friendly. Locals usually just asked if I wanted a porter/guide.

Porters & Guides

70% of trekkers had a guide or porter. Most agree that on the Annapurna Circuit, a guide isn’t necessary, but liked having a porter. I would have liked one that first day when I slung on my 40lb Osprey backpack. Ugh! But I was being stubborn and wanted to hike this trail all by myself.

Packing

I trekked in 1 set of clothes and had another set for the teahouse. I also brought and wore at various times flip flops, thermals, 3 Canada Goose coats (down, soft-shell and parka), 2 thick pair of Wigwam socks with liners, gloves, Kuhl hat and neck gaiter.

What I packed and didn’t use on the trail was my Thermarest Neoair mattress and poncho. I asked others what they brought yet didn’t use and they said foot gaiters or too many clothes. One Chinese-Canadian, computer programmer brought his laptop INSTREAD of a sleeping bag! He never regretted this decision, even as it got colder. Though he knows he was lucky each teahouse had enough blankets.

I probably could have left the sleeping bag, given the teahouses had blankets, but I would never risk it. Higher up, I still used one blanket with my sleeping bag for extra warmth. It got really cold at night.

Getting High!

One thing is for sure, you will get high in altitude. The highest point on the Annapurna Circuit is Thorong La Pass at 17,768 feet. It is over 3,000 feet higher than the tallest mountain in the continental United States.

Most people give themselves 2 days the town of Manang to acclimatize before the last few days push to the pass. You can get your heart-rate and blood Oxygen level checked by the American doctors there. Ideally a Blood-Oxygen level over 85% is best. Mine was 92% with a heart-rate of 88 (normal for me is between 55-60). All good, given at the time, I was almost eleven thousand feet above sea-level.

I did not have to use the anti-altitude sickness prescription Diamox. Climb high and sleep low is the creed. When ascending, it is best to sleep no more than 1,800 feet higher than the night before. I took my time and my body acclimatized properly. There were a couple days a little headache came on, but it went away after drinking more water and taking some Advil.

As for other ways to get high…I’m not gonna lie, you will see patches of marijuana growing and though illegal, some trekkers swear smoking a little weed helps the body acclimate. Hmmmmm…..

Pains & Food Poisoning

Going down mountains can be more painful then climbing. I am fortunate not to have any knee problems but met many people who do. There are no means, even with the American doctors in Manang, to have your knee drained. Be cautious, use knee braces and anti-inflammatory pills prescribed.

Food poisoning can happened, and it happened to me on the 7th night. It was after eating a free Yak dinner from the Tourism Board in Manang. I was throwing up all night. Ugh. Felt horrible. I managed the next day to pull myself out of bed and hike an hour and a half to the next town. I had no energy and felt awful. I slept a lot that afternoon. I was back to normal the next day and took the Cipro, I had brought, for a few days just to make sure.

Many trekkers ‘go vegetarian’ on the trail to avoid bad meat.

Short Circuit

In the past, the Annapurna Circuit was considered a 300km trek. Now, due to development in the region, most of the 2nd half of the trail shares a dusty, bumpy road and vehicles. Because of this, most people end their trek shortly after passing over the famous Thorong La Pass at Jomsom. The trek is shortened to 140km total, but hey…you did the hard part! The rest is mostly downhill. If you chose to end in Jomsom, take the 20 minute plane ride back to Pokhara. It is worth the trip. Your other alternative is an 8 hour bus, hell ride on a horrible bumpy road.

Yup, I said Tang. I forgot my electrolyte packets at home and they don’t have any in Pokhara, Nepal so Tang is the next best thing. I feel like I’m 6 again and thinking of astronauts.  If you have no idea what I am talking about, or even what Tang is…well then I’m just old!

I’m excited to start my solo trek of one of the most beautiful treks in the world.  I say solo and not ‘alone’ because there will be other hikers on the trai.

Many people who do this trek bring a Sherpa/guide.  The trail is well marked…from what I understand and I’m pretty confident in my backpacking skills so I really don’t need one.  Besides, I would feel bad if someone else were to carry my stuff. I may think differently half-way through the trail, but hey…at least my butt is going to be in amazing shape when I’m done!

 As the Spanish say…”vaya con Dios”  and as I told my Dad…”Don’t worry. I’ll call you in 2 weeks!”

If ya’ll are ever in the area be sure to google American, David Hanning and Sunrise-Paragliding (www.sunrise-paragliding.com). You’ll enjoy a smooth ride, high in the sky and some great pictures to boot! So the Exodus group left for Kathmandu today. We said our good-byes in the early AM and then I went off to the Nepal Tourist Board to secure permits for the Annapurna Circuit. I am now official, papers and all.

Enjoyed some carb loading tonight…pizza and chocolate. Anxious for tomorrow!!

Now, that all happened near the end of a 3 hour walking safari. Before that the guide was pointing out birds and deer. My inside voice was saying; “We have those in the U.S. Where are the tigers, sloths and rhino? I see more animal action running the jungle canopy trails near my sister’s in FL.” Our sweet guide was trying so hard and then we hit jackpot with the rhino. Those things are HUGE!

Chitwan National Park, the formal royal hunting grounds, was set aside for conservation in 1973. Here we are saying in huts on stilts at the rustic Maruni Sanctuary Lodge (no internet or air-conditioning).

At the communal eating area, I finally met my first Americans in over a week, Mike and Debbie from Washington D.C. They are part of another group, largely Australian and British, sharing the lodge. We conspired to see how we can get more American to travel outside of the Caribbean & Europe.

In the afternoon we went on another safari, this time riding elephants. We saw another rhino and lots of deer. I told the Brits that if I took pictures of deer and showed it to my friends back home they would laugh at me. I can hear them now…‘Yeah Payge, you went all the way to Nepal to take pictures of an animal we have at home. Good job!”

Our last night in Chitwan was celebrated with performance by an Indian-Nepalese group who showed us stick dancing. Their encore included a dance around a circle. The audience was encouraged to participate… shockingly, I am rather shy when it comes to these things, I jumped in…and it was fun!

Tomorrow we are off to Pokhara, Nepal. I picture it being this backpacker town, at the base of the Himalaya, with lots of Americans and Europeans. We’ll see soon!

• Interested in going on an adventure of your own?  Go to: www.adventurecenter.com
• My Delhi to Kathmandu Trip is through Adventure Center and their affiliate, U.K. based Exodus (www.exodus.co.uk/). 

What was more disconcerting was the floating body we saw.  Apparently, if someone died from small pox, leprosy or a snake bite, they can’t be cremated.  It is believed their brains will explode in the fire and projectile fluid could infect those surrounding.   So instead, they will just dump the bodies in the sacred, brown waters!  Ewwwww! Yup, I was not going swimming here. 

I did like the Aarti on the Ganges. It is an hour long, rooftop ceremony at sunset, watched by thousands from the riverboats.  Seven Brahman Priests perform a blessing swinging incense, chanting and singing, including a song with choirs, “Hari Krishna”.  It was hypnotic and enchanting.

The next day, from Varanasi we took a bumpy 13 hour bus trip to the Nepal boarder.  Our itinerary said it would take 10 hours, but Avtar wanted to show us a little, remote village.  They don’t see many white people and serve great chai tea.  The village people were so sweet. Smiling children and women followed us as we toured their humble abodes.   We even met the mayor. 

It was 7pm and dark before we reached the boarder.

We drove another hour to Lumbini and spent the night in a hotel where the next morning we would see the birth place of Buddha.

A quick history lesson – The Shah Jahan commissioned to have the Taj Mahal built shortly after his beloved wife of 19 years died after giving birth to their 14th child. It took 22 years, 20,000 laborers and was completed in 1653.

Later that afternoon, we decided while in India, we should see a true Bollywood movie. It was also a great way to get out of the 100F sun and kill some time before our sleeper train to Varanasi. We saw the newly released ‘Mausam,’ which means XXXX . Think of Top Gun being stretched out over a 10 year span, with a white horse and dancing. The 3 hour movie (cost 130 Rubees = $2.80) with intermission. Though 85% of it was in Hindi, movie plots and clichés transcend language. We laughed and cheered!

That evening we arrived at the train station to catch our sleeper train from Agra to Varanasi. The station is everything you would think one would like in this part of the world; dirty, smelly, beggars, vendors, people lying on dirty floors, pilgrims dressed in orange robes and headdresses and rats in the bathroom. It was GREAT! Just use lots of hand sanitizer. If you know what to expect, then you won’t be shocked.

We were assigned to a 2nd class sleeper train. Apparently 1st class is reserved for the ministers of state. Our car had A/C and door-less (only curtains) compartments with bunk beds on each wall and another set on the outside. Aside from my British companions, there was a small group of Russian backpackers and the rest were Indians in the sleeper. Our accommodations were simple, but comfortable. I spread out my sleeping bag on the cushioned lower bunk, my backpack by my feet, closed the curtain and slept like a baby gently being rocked.

On the first day of this trip, Avtar, our guide, told us about ‘IST’ or ‘Indian Stretchable Time’ so when our sleeper train arrived in Varnasi this morning 3 hours late, we didn’t mind. It allowed us to sleep in a bit. After checking into our hotel we had the rest of the day off to do shop, get a massage or enjoy some down time.

• Interested in going on an adventure of your own?  Go to: www.adventurecenter.com
• My Delhi to Kathmandu Trip is through Adventure Center and their affiliate, U.K. based Exodus (www.exodus.co.uk/). 

Bollywood MovieMy Bunk on Sleeper TrainMy Bunk on Sleeper Train

So Jaipur was full of interesting things. It is known as the pink city because in 1876 the Maharaja ordered the whole city painted pink to celebrate a visit by the Prince of Wales. It is colorful.  It is also known for its incredible carpet making and mustard.  We visited the Hawa Mahal, the Palace of the Wind, the City Palace where I hammed it up with a couple Rajastiani Palace Guards and then checked out the Jai Singh observatory.  It has the world’s largest sun dial.  Its big!

Today we spent the day driving to Agra.  Along the way we stopped at a true Indian “Starbucks”.  This dirty looking, roadside café (using that world loosely…you’ll understand when you see the pictures) and had the best white chai tea and samosa.  It is a place all the locals go and I was glad Avtar, our guide takes us to these non-tourist places. It is true India. I even liked the bus that pulled up with 30 people on its roof and the camel and cart that drove by our tea stop.

We stopped at another little town and visited with Avtar’s  2^nd parents (as he calls them).  They live very simply and make pottery.  In the town is this amazing 9^th century amphitheater that rivals others I have seen in other parts of the world.

This afternoon we saw the orange- red, sandstone Palace that Akbar built about  40 km from Agra.  It is called Fatehpur Sikri.  Lack of water drove everyone out after 15 years and the palace was abandon. 

Speaking of water or food or something…3 people in our group of 13 came down with ‘Delhi Belly’ today.  I do hope it clears their system fast!  So far, so good for me (I’m knocking on wood). 

Tomorrow we are up early to see the Taj Mahal at sunrise. I can’t wait! In the evening we will board an overnight train to Varnasi.  I am sure that will be an interesting experience!

The word ‘Sikh’ means ‘disciple’. The religion started 500 years ago in opposition of many Hindu beliefs and traditions. Sikhs believe in one god and equality for all, men and women.  They do not believe in a cast system or some of the terrible, old school Hindu traditions like when a husband dies, his wife is burned to death.  Eeeehhhh….Not cool!

We arrived at the white temple with a golden dome. Women and men have to cover their hair, take off socks and shoes and wash hands (since they most likely touched leather shoes- remember cows are sacred here) before entering the temple.  The shrine volunteers will give you a bandana to put on your hair if you didn’t bring anything. I brought my sarong/wrap.  A large, sacred pool is used to wash.

Hypnotic, traditional, live (Kirtan) Indian music filled the air. It made me want to break out and do some yoga. It was really nice seeing all the different colored attire and turbans. Many men walked around harnessing a Kirpan (sword).  The Sikhs were very nice and I had several men come up and ask me where I was from.  Most thought I was ‘Italian’…really?

We later toured the large, communal kitchen and got to see how they make the roti and other delicious Indian foods.  It made me hungry. I love Indian food and just know I am going gain 10 lbs on this trip.

After our morning education on Sikh religion, we were off on our 4-5 hour drive to Jaipur.  I am literally amazed we didn’t see any traffic accidents or anyone get hit.  These Indian drivers are CRAZY!!  I think traffic rules are more like a ‘suggestion’ here and seldom do you see a stop light.  Beat up vans, cars, trucks, packed ‘buses’ and mopeds carrying whole families weaved in and out dodging each other, pedestrians and livestock.  As we entered the state of Rajasthan we even saw camels pulling carts!

Hanging out with my new friend in the Kitchen

Avtar, our Exodus group leader talking about shrine

Communal Kitchen