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Days 8-9 (India Adventure): Floating Bodies, Cremation & Blessings on the Ganges

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The Ganges is a sacred river and in Varanasi, India, and we saw it all…including a floating body.   Hindu pilgrims come to bathe in the Ghats.  They also dip their dead in it before wrapping them in white linen and then cremating them in a pyre (bonfire) on the riverbank.  I must admit, seeing legs sticking out of one of the many bonfires was a little different.  No judgment…just different witnessing a cremation out in the open.

What was more disconcerting was the floating body we saw.  Apparently, if someone died from small pox, leprosy or a snake bite, they can’t be cremated.  It is believed their brains will explode in the fire and projectile fluid could infect those surrounding.   So instead, they will just dump the bodies in the sacred, brown waters!  Ewwwww! Yup, I was not going swimming here.

I did like the Aarti on the Ganges. It is an hour long, rooftop ceremony at sunset, watched by thousands from the riverboats.  Seven Brahman Priests perform a blessing swinging incense, chanting and singing, including a song with choirs, “Hari Krishna”.  It was hypnotic and enchanting.

The next day, from Varanasi we took a bumpy 13 hour bus trip to the Nepal boarder.  Our itinerary said it would take 10 hours, but Avtar wanted to show us a little, remote village.  They don’t see many white people and serve great chai tea.  The village people were so sweet. Smiling children and women followed us as we toured their humble abodes.   We even met the mayor.

It was 7pm and dark before we reached the boarder.

We drove another hour to Lumbini and spent the night in a hotel where the next morning we would see the birth place of Buddha.

Days 6 & 7 (India Adventure): Taj Mahal, Bollywood & Sleeper Trains

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We arrived at sunrise. They have separate lines for women, Indian women and men. After going through a metal detector and having our bags checked, we were inside the courtyard. We walked through a grand entrance and there she stood across the garden…the magnificent, marble mausoleum is truly one of the 7 Wonders of the World. I wanted to pinch myself. I couldn’t believe I was looking at the Ta Mahal.

A quick history lesson – The Shah Jahan commissioned to have the Taj Mahal built shortly after his beloved wife of 19 years died after giving birth to their 14th child. It took 22 years, 20,000 laborers and was completed in 1653.

Later that afternoon, we decided while in India, we should see a true Bollywood movie. It was also a great way to get out of the 100F sun and kill some time before our sleeper train to Varanasi. We saw the newly released ‘Mausam,’ which means XXXX . Think of Top Gun being stretched out over a 10 year span, with a white horse and dancing. The 3 hour movie (cost 130 Rubees = $2.80) with intermission. Though 85% of it was in Hindi, movie plots and clichés transcend language. We laughed and cheered!

That evening we arrived at the train station to catch our sleeper train from Agra to Varanasi. The station is everything you would think one would like in this part of the world; dirty, smelly, beggars, vendors, people lying on dirty floors, pilgrims dressed in orange robes and headdresses and rats in the bathroom. It was GREAT! Just use lots of hand sanitizer. If you know what to expect, then you won’t be shocked.

We were assigned to a 2nd class sleeper train. Apparently 1st class is reserved for the ministers of state. Our car had A/C and door-less (only curtains) compartments with bunk beds on each wall and another set on the outside. Aside from my British companions, there was a small group of Russian backpackers and the rest were Indians in the sleeper. Our accommodations were simple, but comfortable. I spread out my sleeping bag on the cushioned lower bunk, my backpack by my feet, closed the curtain and slept like a baby gently being rocked.

On the first day of this trip, Avtar, our guide, told us about ‘IST’ or ‘Indian Stretchable Time’ so when our sleeper train arrived in Varnasi this morning 3 hours late, we didn’t mind. It allowed us to sleep in a bit. After checking into our hotel we had the rest of the day off to do shop, get a massage or enjoy some down time.

  • Interested in going on an adventure of your own?  Go to: www.adventurecenter.com
  • My Delhi to Kathmandu Trip is through Adventure Center and their affiliate, U.K. based Exodus (www.exodus.co.uk/). 

Bollywood MovieMy Bunk on Sleeper TrainMy Bunk on Sleeper Train

 

 

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Days 4 & 5 (India Adventure): Charming Cobras, Rajastani Palace Guards & Delhi Belly strikes the group!

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Eleanor Roosevelt once said, “do one thing each day that scares you.”  I did just that in Jaipur yesterday.  I can now add ‘Snake Charmer’ to my resume of crazy $#*t that I’ll try.  I sat with a snake charmer and pet a cobra! Sure, on the outside I was smiling but my inside voice was saying “nice snake…please don’t bite me…nice snake…” Seriously, add it to your bucket list.  Its kind of a rush;-)

So Jaipur was full of interesting things. It is known as the pink city because in 1876 the Maharaja ordered the whole city painted pink to celebrate a visit by the Prince of Wales. It is colorful.  It is also known for its incredible carpet making and mustard.  We visited the Hawa Mahal, the Palace of the Wind, the City Palace where I hammed it up with a couple Rajastiani Palace Guards and then checked out the Jai Singh observatory.  It has the world’s largest sun dial.  Its big!

Today we spent the day driving to Agra.  Along the way we stopped at a true Indian “Starbucks”.  This dirty looking, roadside café (using that world loosely…you’ll understand when you see the pictures) and had the best white chai tea and samosa.  It is a place all the locals go and I was glad Avtar, our guide takes us to these non-tourist places. It is true India. I even liked the bus that pulled up with 30 people on its roof and the camel and cart that drove by our tea stop.

We stopped at another little town and visited with Avtar’s  2nd parents (as he calls them).  They live very simply and make pottery.  In the town is this amazing 9th century amphitheater that rivals others I have seen in other parts of the world.

This afternoon we saw the orange- red, sandstone Palace that Akbar built about  40 km from Agra.  It is called Fatehpur Sikri.  Lack of water drove everyone out after 15 years and the palace was abandon.

Speaking of water or food or something…3 people in our group of 13 came down with ‘Delhi Belly’ today.  I do hope it clears their system fast!  So far, so good for me (I’m knocking on wood).

Tomorrow we are up early to see the Taj Mahal at sunrise. I can’t wait! In the evening we will board an overnight train to Varnasi.  I am sure that will be an interesting experience!

Day 3 (India Adventure): Sikhs & Streets

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This AM we went to the largest Sikh shrine, Gurdwara Bangla Sahib (aka The Golden Temple), in Delhi. The only thing I knew about Sikhs before was that the men wore turbans and never cut their hair.  I thought they were uber strict followers of Hindu.  More like Hassidics are with Judaism.   I was totally wrong.

The word ‘Sikh’ means ‘disciple’. The religion started 500 years ago in opposition of many Hindu beliefs and traditions. Sikhs believe in one god and equality for all, men and women.  They do not believe in a cast system or some of the terrible, old school Hindu traditions like when a husband dies, his wife is burned to death.  Eeeehhhh….Not cool!

We arrived at the white temple with a golden dome. Women and men have to cover their hair, take off socks and shoes and wash hands (since they most likely touched leather shoes- remember cows are sacred here) before entering the temple.  The shrine volunteers will give you a bandana to put on your hair if you didn’t bring anything. I brought my sarong/wrap.  A large, sacred pool is used to wash.

Hypnotic, traditional, live (Kirtan) Indian music filled the air. It made me want to break out and do some yoga. It was really nice seeing all the different colored attire and turbans. Many men walked around harnessing a Kirpan (sword).  The Sikhs were very nice and I had several men come up and ask me where I was from.  Most thought I was ‘Italian’…really?

We later toured the large, communal kitchen and got to see how they make the roti and other delicious Indian foods.  It made me hungry. I love Indian food and just know I am going gain 10 lbs on this trip.

After our morning education on Sikh religion, we were off on our 4-5 hour drive to Jaipur.  I am literally amazed we didn’t see any traffic accidents or anyone get hit.  These Indian drivers are CRAZY!!  I think traffic rules are more like a ‘suggestion’ here and seldom do you see a stop light.  Beat up vans, cars, trucks, packed ‘buses’ and mopeds carrying whole families weaved in and out dodging each other, pedestrians and livestock.  As we entered the state of Rajasthan we even saw camels pulling carts!

 

 

Hanging out with my new friend in the Kitchen
Avtar, our Exodus group leader talking about shrine
Communal Kitchen

Day 2 (India Adventure): Delhi, Brits, Mosque & Moghul

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My first night in Delhi, I slept on and off until 11. On Sunday, September 25, I took the elevator downstairs to the lobby and meet Avtar, our Indian guide with Exodus Travel. He greets everyone with a friendly smile. He is dressed in a button down shirt, black jeans and is wearing a black turban. In addition to Hindi, he speaks 10 Indian dialects and French. I am always in awe of people who can speak multiple languages.  My English and Spanish will only get me so far!

Gathered around Avtar are 12 English travelers, age ranges (I’m guessing) 20’s-50’s. They just flew in that morning. I introduced myself as the ‘token’ American. There are 4 men and 9 women. Aside from 2 couples, the rest of us came by ourselves. I have found this more common with Europeans then with Americans…traveling solo.

We spent a hot (90F) Sunday afternoon sightseeing. Our first stop was in Old Delhi and the Red Fort, also known as the Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque. It was built between 1644-1658. Before entering, all of us girls were given colorful dresses to wear inside. Everyone had to take their shoes off. Our feet were hot on the red sandstone tiles as we walked around the Fort’s open square.

After the mosque we paired up in twos and rode a rickshaw through the crowded market. It was 100 Indian Rupees per person ($2.15). We dodged other rickshaws, mopeds, cars, people and dogs. I don’t know how we didn’t hit anyone. It was a first for me and actually pretty fun!

Later we walked through the green park Gandhi was cremated and saw his memorial where a flame in a lantern is burned 24-7.

We got back on the bus and went to the tomb of Humayun, an early Mogul emperor. The Persian influenced mausoleum is said to be a precursor to the Taj Mahal and is made of red sandstone and white marble. By the end of the day, everyone had jet lag kicking in big time. We went back to the hotel for a quick supper and went to bed.

I slept great! This morning we are finishing up our mini tour of Delhi and then driving the 5-6 hours to the city of Jaipur.